In the 1920s, the Bapuon, originally a 43-meter tall, three tiered
pyramid representing the mythical Mount Meru, suffered a series
of collapses. In 1943, half the north face of the second and third
tiers also suddenly crumbled.
 In
the 1950s, Royere's Paris-based oriental studies institute, Ecole
Francais d'Extreme Orient, decided to dismantle large parts of the
Bapuon stone by stone to make essential internal structural repairs.
By 1971, some 300,000 stones had been removed and carefully placed
in the jungle face down to hide magnificent base relief carving
from plunderers.
But then disaster struck. War came to Angkor and the restorers
were forced to leave. The following year, another major collapse
occurred, wiping out the northwest quadrant of the two upper tiers.
Worse, in 1975, the detailed records the team had kept of where
the stones fitted disappeared in the chaos of the Khmer Rouge takeover.
From then on, assembling the Bapoun would be like doing a massive
jigsaw puzzle without the picture on the box.
The French returned in 1992 after Angkor was declared a UNESCO
world heritage site and they have used every means at their disposal,
including massive construction cranes and a computerized three-dimensional
mapping of each stone, to securely rebuild what their predecessors
and time took down.
Crucial to any lasting restoration has been the insertion of an
internal drainage system which the original builders in the reign
of King Udayadityavarman 11 ( 1050-65 ) failed to see the need for.
This is mainly why the Bapuon failed to survive the ravages of
the elements as well as Angkor Wat, the Bayon and so many other
temples including Ta Prom.
The French team now believe they are on target to finish the reconstruction
job by 2004.
 For
visitors to Angkor, that date cannot come soon. Apart from its exquisite
bias relief, the Bapuon has another unique attraction. Though built
as a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, it was continually
modified over the years and in the late 15th century, after Buddhism
had reached Angkor, a massive reclining Buddha figure was constructed
on the western face of the pyramid. Royere describes it as "no
doubt the greatest exercise in recycling ever undertaken on an Angkor
monument."
That Buddha image, one of the largest of its kind in the world,
has mostly survived the Bapuon decline and fall. Soon the Bapuon
will once again stand alongside Angkor Thom as one of Southeast
Asia's most magnificent archeological treasures.
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