Ta Prohm's state of ruin is a state of beauty, which is investigated
with delight and left with regret.
Location
: Ta Prohm is locating southwest of the East Mebon and east
of Angkor Thom. Its outer enclosure is near the corner of Banteay
Kdei.
Access: Enter the monument from the west and leave from the east
entrance.
Tip : Ta Prohm is especially serene and beautiful in the
early morning. A torch and a compass are useful for visiting this
temple at all times. It was built about mid-12th century to early
13th century (1186) by the King Jayavarman VII, dedicated to the
mother of the king (Buddhist) replica to Bayon style of art.
Background : Ta Prohm is the undisputed capital of the kingdom
of the Trees'. It has been left untouched by archaeologists except
for the clearing of a path for visitors and structural strengthening
to stave of further deterioration. Because of its natural state,
it is possible to experience at this temple the wonder of the early
explorers when they came upon these monuments in the middle of the
nineteenth century.
Shrouded in dense jungle the temple of Ta Prohm is ethereal in
aspect and conjures up a romantic aura. Fig, banyan and kapok trees
spread their gigantic roots over stones, probing walls and terraces
apart, as their branches and leaves intertwine to form a roof over
the structures. Trunks of trees twist amongst stone pillars. The
strange, haunted charm of the place entwines itself about you as
you go, as inescapably as the roots have wound themselves about
the walls and towers', wrote a visitor 40 years ago.
A
Sanskrit inscription on stone, still in place, give details of the
temple. Ta Prohm 3,140 villages. It took 79,365 people to maintain
the temple including 18 great priests, 2,740 officials, 2,202 assistants
and 615 dancers. Among the property belonging to the temple was
a set of golden dishes weighing more than 500 kilograms, 35 diamonds,
40,620 pearls, 4,540 precious stones, 876 veils from China, 512
silk beds and 523 parasols. Even considering that these numbers
were probably exaggerated to glorify the king, Ta Prohm must have
been an important and impressive monument.
Layout : Ta Prohm is among the largest of the monuments
in the Angkor complex, the in scrimption gives an idea of the size
of the temple. The complex included 260 statues of gods, 39 towers
with pinnacles and 566 groups of residences. Ta Prohm comprises
a series of long low buildings standing on one level, which are
enclosed by rectangular laterite wall (600 by 1,000 meters, 1,959
by 3,281 feet). Only traces of the wall are still visible. The center
of the monument is reached by a series of towers connected with
passages. This arrangement forms a ' sort of sacred way into the
heart of the monument; three-square galleries enclose the area.
Tip
: Some areas of the temple are impassable and others are accessible
only by narrow dark passages. It is recommended to follow the plan
with a route and landmarks indicted or to stay with a guide to avoid
getting lost.
The boundaries of the exterior wall are recognizable on the west
by a stone entry tower in the shape of a cross, with an upper portion
in the form of four faces, one looking towards each of the cardinal
points (not shown on the plan). The approach to the west entrance
of the temple is a path through the forest. After about 350 meters
(1,148 feet) there is a stone terrace in the shape of a cross. Remains
of lions, serpent balustrades and mythical creatures lie scattered
in the area. Walk across the terrace to the vestibule of the enclosing
wall. The view from this point is spectacular.
Every here around you, you see nature n this dual role of destroyer
and consoler; strangling on the one hand, and healing on the other;
no sooner splitting the carved stones asunder than she dresses their
wounds with cool, velvety mosses, and binds them with her most delicate
tendrils; a conflict of moods so contradictory and feminine as to
prove once more if proof were needed how well " Dame "Nature
merits her feminine title. The next causeway with serpent balustrades
on each side leads to an entry tower (1) in the first enclosure
around the temple. Inside, on the right, niches along the inner
wall contain images of the Buddha. Return to the center of the vestibule,
turn right and walk through the courtyard to the annex building
at the right (2). Continue walking straight through the series of
rooms and passages to a tower (3). The relief on the horizontal
beam is a fine representation of a scene from 'The Great Departure
' when the future. Buddha decides to leave his father's palace to
live the life of a monk, the gods hold the hoofs of his horse so
those sleeping in the palace are not awakened. Return to the courtyard
and pass through an opening as opening (4) in the wall of the second
enclosure (at the south end). The roots of a tree grip the double
row of pillars in this gallery. Walk to the center of the complex,
turn right and enter the entry tower (5) of the third enclosing
gallery. The inner walls are decorated with friezes of pendants,
scrolls and figures in niches. Turn right again and walk into the
central courtyard (6) of the temple.
Central
Sanctuary : Follow the plan and walk through the Central Sanctuary,
recognizable by its undecorated interior. The stone has hammered,
presumably to apply a coating probably of paint or gilt. Evenly
spaced ' holes in the wall from floor to ceiling suggest a covering
of wood, stucco or metal.
Walk across the central courtyard towards the left (northeast)
and through the door (7) of a gallery that is framed by the roots
of a tree. Turn left and walk through a dark passageway (8) and
a courtyard (9). Enter the aisle with pillars, turn right, walk
straight between twin towers and to the right into a very narrow
passage which houses the inscription (10) of the temple. Return
by the same passage, turn right and continue straight, passing through
a vestibule (11). The false doors on the north and south sides of
the large rectangular enclosure with high walls are finely decorated.
There are four small courts with galleries and pillars (12). Ritual
dances may have been performed in this area.
Walk across the courtyard and into the entry tower of the enclosing
wall, at the east entrance (13). It is in the shape of a cross with
pillars on the interior, four wings and two passages on the side.
The walls of these passages are decorated with relief. To the left
there is a hall with pillars placed close together (14). They probably
provided the base for a structure built of wood. Beyond are small
rectangular cells (15), which surround the exterior of Ta Prohm.
One leaves Ta Prohm by a path (400 meters, 1,32 feet long) leading
to the exterior enclosure where section of the wall are visible.
So the temple is held in a stranglehold of trees. Stone and wood
clasp each other in grim hostility; yet all is silent and still,
without any visible movement to indicate their struggle as if they
were wrestlers suddenly petrified, struck motionless in the middle
of a fight, the rounds in this battle were not measured by minutes,
but by centuries.
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