Set on top of a tree-covered knoll 27m high, Wat Phnom is the only
hill in town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site
was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here
by the waters of the Mekong and discovered by a woman name Penh.
The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase,
which is guarded by lions and naga (snake) balustrades.
Today, many people come here to pray for good luck and success
in school exams or business affairs. When a petitioner's wish is
granted, he or she returns to make the offering (such as a garland
of jasmine flowers or bananas, of which the spirits are said to
be especially fond) promised when the request was made.
The vihara (temple sanctuary) was rebuilt in 1434, 1806 , 1894,
and, most recently, in 1926. West of the vihara is an enormous stupa
containing the ashes of King Ponhea Yat (reigned 1405 to 1467) .
In a small pavilion on the south side of the passage between the
vihara and the stupa is a statue of the smiling and rather plump
Madame Penh.
A bit to the north of the vihara and below it is an eclectic shrine
dedicated to the genie Preah Chau, who is especially revered by
the Vietnamese. On either side of the entrance to the chamber in
which a statue of Preah Chau sits are guardian spirits bearing iron
bats. On the tile table in front of the two guardian spirits are
drawings of Confucius, and two Chinese-style figures of the sages
Thang Cheng (on the right ) and Thang Thay (on the left). To the
left of the central altar is an eight-armed statue of Vishnu.
Down the hill from the shrine is a royal stupa sprouting full-size
trees from its roof. For now, the roots are holding the bricks together
in their net-like grip, but when the trees die the tower will slowly
crumble. If you can't make it out to Angkor, this stupa gives a
pretty good idea of what the jungle can do (and is doing) to Cambodia's
monuments.
Curiously, Wat Phnom is the only attraction in Phnom Penh that
is in danger of turning into a circus. Beggars, street urchins,
women selling drinks and children selling birds in cages (you pay
to set the bird free locals claim the birds are trained to return
to their cage afterwards) pester everyone who turns up to slog the
27m to the summit. Fortunately its' all high-spirited stuff, and
it's difficult to be annoyed by the vendors, who after all, are
only trying to eke out a living.
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